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Friday, 1 April 2011

Saccomanno's - Pie R Squared

I have written about pizza many times. I've written about how North American pizza took an evolutionary trajectory not unlike that of Darwin's Finches, ie, rapidly diverging into many distinct species from a single parent species. I've written about how take-out pizza can follow one of two paths: (1) a greasy, manhandled mess, or (2) a swift yet satisfying respite from cooking. Last summer I wrote about Saccomanno's, which is a north end deli/pizza/pasta spot. I did not write specifically about Saccomanno's pizza when I first interviewed the Saccomanno family, but have since returned multiple times to indulge in what may be the best under-the-radar pizza in Edmonton.

I recently enjoyed "Frank's Special" pizza, relaxing in the spacious dining room, ogling the groceries and pretending to understand the RAI Italia news broadcast from the flat screen television. Frank's Special features generous layers of pepperoni, ham, mushrooms, onions, green peppers and black olives crowned by a gooey stratum of mozzarella cheese. The crust is tender and crisp around the edges; I imagine it would be just as delicious without the toppings. Orangina is a quintessential pizza beverage, as the carbonated citrus is a light foil for the robust meat, crust and cheese. There are many reliable and excellent spots for pizza in this city, but one of the best is hiding behind the train tracks on the north side.

Above: Frank's Special is a treat to behold. Below: the old-school signage and enviable deli of Saccomanno's.

Saccomanno's Pizza Pasta Deli on Urbanspoon


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