|A lively lucha libre scene|
Enter Tres Carnales. This welcome addition to Rice Howard Way might very well be my new favourite in town. I recently dined with Marlow Moo and his entourage, partaking in a veritable magical mystery tour of otherworldly flavours. Dani, Chris and Edgar are superlative and personable hosts; they embody the term carnales.
|Marlow digs into a Torta Al Pastor|
In a happy state of bewilderment I cannot decide what to order. My indecision is rewarded with a quartet of tacos that cradle sweet corn, smoky poblano chilies, onions and cilantro. A house-made crema gently binds together these clever ingredients. A heady glass of sangria chases each bite in a riot of boozy fruit.
|Magical mystery tour in the guise of tacos|
A dish of gargantuan cebollitas - popular in Mexico but heinously difficult to find north of the 49th parallel - appears next. These giant green onions have been slowly caramelized until ridiculously tender and sweet. They are at once delicate and robust and fulfill any lingering desire for dessert.
|Sweet, sweet cebollitas|
Already I plan my return. I still ponder the myriad of reasons behind the popularity of fast-food quasi-Mexicana. I do not ponder the myriad of reasons behind the success of Tres Carnales. Passion and talent are but two reasons and there are many, many more.