Tres Carnales - Oye Como Va

I have never been a fan of fast food's interpretation of Mexican cuisine. Like anything prepared en masse, it seems bastardized and contrived, with originality sacrificed in the name of convenience. I might add that my scant few experiences with eating such food - no names shall be mentioned but I might allude to a talking chihuahua - has never ended well. It repeatedly begs the question: why, oh why, when real Mexican food is so wonderful do the hoards still congregate under the roofs of Tex-Mex banality?

A lively lucha libre scene

Enter Tres Carnales. This welcome addition to Rice Howard Way might very well be my new favourite in town. I recently dined with Marlow Moo and his entourage, partaking in a veritable magical mystery tour of otherworldly flavours. Dani, Chris and Edgar are superlative and personable hosts; they embody the term carnales.

Marlow digs into a Torta Al Pastor

In a happy state of bewilderment I cannot decide what to order. My indecision is rewarded with a quartet of tacos that cradle sweet corn, smoky poblano chilies, onions and cilantro. A house-made crema gently binds together these clever ingredients. A heady glass of sangria chases each bite in a riot of boozy fruit.

Magical mystery tour in the guise of tacos

A dish of gargantuan cebollitas - popular in Mexico but heinously difficult to find north of the 49th parallel - appears next. These giant green onions have been slowly caramelized until ridiculously tender and sweet. They are at once delicate and robust and fulfill any lingering desire for dessert.

Sweet, sweet cebollitas

Already I plan my return. I still ponder the myriad of reasons behind the popularity of fast-food quasi-Mexicana. I do not ponder the myriad of reasons behind the success of Tres Carnales. Passion and talent are but two reasons and there are many, many more.