Bistro Praha - Kickin' It Old World

I clearly remember Bistro Praha's previous location, which was the ground floor of a spectacular brick heritage building, the Ramsey Block. I dined in their stately dining room, noshed on solid Mitteleuropa, and enjoyed the complete paucity of vehicular traffic outside. Sadly, arson destroyed this gorgeous spot and sent Bistro Praha (plus its neighbour, Co Co Di) packing. Bistro Praha eventually reopened in the former digs of Moon Garden, just a few steps north of Jasper.

 Bistro Praha's new digs are decidedly Old World, replete with large oil paintings and no-fuss, heavy wooden tables. The meat-driven menu presents multiple versions of schnitzels, a smattering of pastas, and a concise selection of cured and roasted meats.

Dining commences with a tomato and onion salad. I appreciate the tart and acidic presence of vinegar, but the tomatoes are woefully underripe and contribute little of the sunny juiciness these crimson treasures should possess.

Roast goose is next up. It is served with fluffy bread dumplings that act as edible sponges for rich meat drippings. A juicy tangle of bacon-studded sauerkraut rides shotgun; its fermented essence nicely offsets the delightfully fatty goose. The goose is sizable (and I ordered the half portion - be forewarned that portion sizes are substantial) and thoroughly satiates.

Smoked pork hocks come with sauerkraut and bread dumplings and features several rosy portions of smoky Schweinefleisch. Think ham raised to the power of ten and you approach the cured and smoked personality of this dish. Yellow mustard is a decent, if not overly imaginative, condiment.

Weinerschnitzel is one of Bistro Praha's claims to enduring, city-wide fame. A squeeze of lemon adds a leap of citrus to golden, buttery bread crumbs and tender veal. A small scoop of creamy potato salad and a curl of cucumber add swatches of white and green.

The summation of a meal at Bistro Praha is an old school, Old World feed of meat and starch. Don't expect anything fussy - thank goodness. I do miss their original location, though. Their new spot has dreadful acoustics and the room is so narrow that serves must weave among the chairs on tiptoe. Never mind; Bistro Praha still kicks it Old World.