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Wednesday, 9 May 2012

Caffe Sorrentino - Go North, Young Man

Brevity is difficult, particularly with respect to food writing. No one wants to read a novella of your most recent meal, but at the same time, the writer cannot excise crucial details that leave the memories of your meal as little more than guesswork. It remains a supreme challenge, especially when the writer is prone to verbosity.

Hence, very brief meals are an easy solution to this vexatious issue. In the interest of brevity, of both meal size and word count, I dropped by the newest addition to the Sorrentino's group, Caffe Sorrentino Clearwater Plaza, which is way up on the northern reaches of 97th street. I enjoy the Caffe Sorrentinos for several reasons, namely, predictably delicious coffee, sleek interior, and a decidedly less "franchisey" feel than other coffee cafes.

This newbie is dressed in sharp blacks, reds and whites, and features a number of low-backed tall stools. A word to the wise: do not lean back in these chairs. They are not for leaning. Soccer highlights play on a flat screen TV and Italian pop music meanders through the background.

I'm jonesin' for some espresso but am also beguiled by the gelato cooler. Caffe affogato is a clever compromise. A judicious scoop of gelato is surrounded by a moat of freshly pulled espresso. Brilliant. Here, pistachio is a non-intuitive but supremely agreeable partner to a dark and smoky java. It's worth the trip of 97th to visit this little escape from the surrounding clutches of subdivision cloneville and also to exercise one's propensity for brevity.

Caffe Sorrentino (Clearwater Plazza) on Urbanspoon


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