On the Roed Again - A Night at Sloppy Hoggs

Edmonton finally has a proper barbecue joint. These stanchions of the American Deep South pride themselves with fall-off-the-bone, marvelously aromatic, tender, juicy, carnivore-dream-come-true meaty creations, and have long been absent from the City of Champions. Enter Sloppy Hoggs Roed Hus, brainchild of the creative souls behind Absolutely Edibles. Though a bit hard to access, given a mess of road construction, a trip to Sloppy Hoggs is stomach-expanding and mind-blowing experience.

We enter a small room craftily decorated with western accoutrements - saddles, cowhide and the like. Mercifully, the theme does not slap one in the face (much like the overdone themes at oh so many franchises). We start with Snakebites, i.e., cornmeal encrusted catfish morsels. They are mild and flaky, just like catfish should be. A tangy and creamy dip is a willing partner.

The main course is meat. Superbly done meat at that. We divide our attention between the Roed Hus Roed Kill and a full rack of ribs. The Roed Kill is an eye-popping belt-popping tower of every manner of smoked meat imaginable. Beef brisket, smoked pork, smoked chicken, smoked cheddar, berry BBQ sauce - to name a few. A giant steak knife holds this leaning tower of protein together. The interplay of flavours is divine. A side of fries and baked beans is a bit superfluous but is tasty on its own.

The ribs are the best I've ever tasted. They sing of the smokehouse and serenade me with the tenderness that only smoke-kissed meat can provide. I can barely touch the fries, beans and cornbread and will have enough leftovers for several subsequent evenings. Sloppy Hoggs has clearly hit the ground running and I am anxious to visit again. My only advice? Come hungry. Come very hungry or the portions will defeat you.