Pizzeria Rosso is Da Capo both reinvented and significantly evolved. Warm-hued wooden tables and a wall display of split kindling are decorative nods to the kitchen's chief fuel source. Understated lighting and an open kitchen complete this space. Those who frequented Da Capo will recall the large, U-shaped counter that dominates the middle of the dining room. Unfortunately, this counter still exists, and does little except to bisect the room in a manner most awkward. It also blocks the view of the open kitchen - if only the latter were permitted to star more centrally in this show. Rosso's double-sided menu features antipasti, insalati, panini, and pizza. The descriptions are tantalizing.
Da Capo took a risk by retooling both its name and concept. The menu is strong, but the dining atmosphere would be strengthened by putting greater emphasis on the pizza oven and far less on the front counter. Judging by the impact of the pizza alone, though, Pizzeria Rosso portends a new dawn for pizza in this city.