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Sunday, 2 June 2013

Bully Food Truck - Talkin' 'Bout a Revolution

Society vacillates through periods of stability and revolution. Smaller oscillations occur within this grander system: everything from science to fashion. Edmonton, it seems, stayed in a period of stability for decades in terms of food culture, but something shifted about three years ago. No one quite knows what instigated this revolution. Perhaps we achieved some sort of "critical mass" that set things in motion. Small, craft eateries are growing like flowers, new farmers' markets appear each spring, and a new fleet of food trucks roams the streets like merchant vessels in uncharted seas.

Bully Food Truck joined the Capital City's growing ranks of vehicular vittles last season, and is easily the most blinged-out truck in the city. Their brand is cheeky; think "give me your lunch money" paired with screaming orange and bold letters. Bully's food, paradoxically, is anything but brash.

Rather, Bully's culinary identity centers on comfort food. On this particular lunch hour, rain relentlessly pounds the pavement and cruel winds up-end the most stubborn of umbrellas. Butter Chicken Pops are an intuitive antidote to inclement weather. Bully's interpretation features tender drumsticks on a bed of nutty basmati, accompanied by purple cabbage slaw. The sauce (mercifully) leans toward the tomato-ish end, rather than the creamy end, of the butter chicken spectrum. It is sumptuous and not too spicy, though a sprinkle of cilantro would do well to replace the tumble of green onions on top.

Mac and Cheese is a portal to childhood school lunches. Far too many versions of macaroni and cheese in this city are inexplicably stingy with cheese. The resultant naked noodles are anything but appetizing. Bully's version veritably swims with cheese. Shavings of cheddar and toasty bread crumbs are a crown worn with pride. Really, if one is going to make mac and cheese, it shouldn't be a game of "find the cheese." Thank you, Bully. This is how it should be made.

The food truck micro-revolution is well underway, and Bully easily owns the "comfort food" niche. One might ponder, though, the connectivity between comfort food and the truck's name which, for the uninitiated, implies all things sharp and spicy. The "Snuggle Wagon" just doesn't have the same impact. Really, during this phase of culinary revolution, any truck or restaurant must own its food. Bully owns mac and cheese.

Bully Mobile Food Truck on Urbanspoon


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