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Thursday, 18 July 2013

Local Omnivore - Please, Sir, I want some more

Matching portion size to price point is art-meets-science and, no matter what the rationale, is apt to incite polarity. I am well-acquainted with the myriad of expenses that lurk just behind the counter. For restaurant or food truck, one must contend with rent or mortgage, insurance (both vehicular and liability), permits, equipment purchases, food costs, staff salaries and any number of unexpected things that require money. Portion size, thus, reflects these costs, but the restaurateur is vexed with sating a public that is used to the mantra of "more is better."

The Local Omnivore food truck epitomizes this conundrum. L.O.'s sandwiches are modestly portioned; this decision has alternately been praised and derided. Debate club fodder aside, what of Local Omnivore's food? The BLT tastes exactly the way a good specimen of this species ought to. The tomatoes taste like tomatoes: juicy, ripe and musky-sweet. Lettuce is crisp and never flaccid. The bacon is not too thick, not too thin, and does justice to the Holy Trinity of ingredients: fat, salt, and sweet. The agreeable bread permits its innards to do the talking.

Inside-Out Grilled cheese, though the combination of cheddar and swiss is tasty, isn't much different than a right-side-out grilled cheese sandwich. The inside-out component derives from the fact that the crusts face in and the fluffy sides face out. There was so much room for creativity here - how about some fried cheese on the outside and bread on the inside?

Two hand-sized sandwiches rang in at a little less than 20 bucks. I understand the ever-present guillotine of restaurant expenses. But, after two sandwiches and a short period of time, I was hungry again. Please, Sir. I want some more.

The Local Omnivore on Urbanspoon


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