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Saturday, 17 August 2013

Keep Calm and Knosh On

Part of me wishes that Knosh, another neophyte vittle-vehicle on Edmonton streets, was a right-hand drive. Why? Elementary, my dear; their food is British. British eats, apart from fish and chips, are woefully underrepresented in this city. That alone imparts a degree of the overseas-exotic to Knosh.

These days, Knosh is parked a hop, skip and jump south of Jasper, part of the ever-growing crowd of downtown food trucks. Stately elm trees, a quasi-cobblestone sidewalk and a few nearby park benches are fortunate companions. The menu includes daily specials as well as roster of items that changes less frequently. All are nods to across the pond.

Steak and Kidney Pie comes in its own foil container and is capped by a lusciously flaky puff pastry crust. The insides are meaty, saucy, and ample. Though the flavour is predominantly steaky, morsels of toothsome kidney shine through. In lifetimes past, I've had an aversion to organ meats - a product of lamentably poor preparation on the part of many establishments and a few too many childhood meals of leather-tough fried liver. Knosh's kidneys, though, deserve the spotlight just as much as steak.

A Ploughman's Sandwich - Knosh's take on the traditional British meal of the same name - is sizable. Indeed, half will become tomorrow's lunch. This version is stuffed with hunks of chicken, tangy onion chutney (oh how I wish there was more), hard boiled eggs, and tomato slices. Though the bun is a bit of a weak link, the filling is hearty and savoury.

Rhubarb Crumble is a tart-sweet paradox with a proper filling:topping ratio. Fuchsia rhubarb tidbits are just waiting to be discovered under their crispy blanket. A light and eggy custard sauce caps off the deal.

A late afternoon fluffy scone is a bonus. It's a wonder it doesn't just float away on the breeze. Paired with a cup of tea, raspberry preserves and butter, one might imagine London Bridge off in the distance. In the mean time, keep calm and Knosh on.

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