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Sunday, 20 April 2014

Serenity at Miki Sushi Express

Sushi imparts serenity. Unless one is extremely adept with chopsticks, one cannot wolf down sushi as one might with a burger, or inhale maki as one might with a sandwich, or massacre sashimi as one might with French fries. No; the very act of sushi consumption insists upon serenity.

This is why every neighbourhood deserves a good little sushi spot. For the longest time, Edmonton's north east conspicuously lacked an independent sushi restaurant. Enter Miki Sushi Express on Victoria Trail. This bright and tidy spot fills a vacant niche concurrent with a providing a healthy dose of serenity.

Miki's menu is lengthy, and one orders by checking off the desired items and handing it back to a staff member. Shrimp Spicy Roll, to begin, isn't especially spicy, but the accompanying red pepper dip packs a punch. Minus the dip, the rolls impart a pleasing combination of tempura shrimp, shredded carrots, and - unexpectedly - leaf lettuce.

Hawaii Roll whips together minced crab and shrimp with velvety avocado and interjections of vibrant mango. Lettuce makes an encore appearance, lending a crispy edge to traditionally soft, interstitial nori. An outer nebula of tobiko adds piscine pop with each mouthful.

Sunrise Roll caps off the evening with a smoky exchange of cold-smoked salmon wrapped around grilled egg, crab stick, and wedges of chartreuse avocado. Each ingredient insists on thoughtful contemplation, rather than mindless gobbling. Miki Sushi Express doesn't reinvent the wheel with respect to sushi, but more than provides a placid pocket of serenity in an otherwise mundane strip mall.

Miki Sushi Express on Urbanspoon


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