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Wednesday, 25 February 2015

Change from Within at Coffee Bureau

If you have ever taken an urban geography class, you've doubtless encountered the "doughnut effect." This not-so-unrealistic theory describes an evolution of urban areas wherein the downtown slowly deteriorates to the point of darkness (i.e., the "hole") and the outskirts fatten up like concentric rings around this dead zone, continually sprawling ever-outward. The Effect characterizes a great many North American cities.

This paradigm has been true for Edmonton, but it is far from a woeful fate inscribed in stone. Glimmers rose from downtown: small and tentative at first, but then bursting forth like new stars from a murky nebula in some far-flung region of outer space. Five years ago, you could name a few of these downtown stars and perhaps count them on one hand. In 2015, it is a different story altogether and mere digits are not enough to number these nascent cafes, restaurants, and coffee houses.


Coffee Bureau has been open but a scant week, in an austere white brick building on a particularly windy corner of Jasper and 105th. White lettering on the window proclaims that "Coffee always gives you a break," and a step through Bureau's door quickly affirms this assertion. The small (but never cramped) room's feel falls somewhere between Scandinavian (think wood ceilings and hyper-cool light fixtures) and Italian (think gleaming espresso machine and deftly tiled wall). Snack options will be fleshed out in the future, but for the time being, a pair of tawny butter tarts require both tooth and spoon to consume - their dreamy insides are gorgeously runny and sweet.


The coffee menu is short and decisive. An espresso macchiato places just the right amount of milk foam over two strong shots of aromatic espresso. The beans are roasted right in Edmonton, a hop, skip and jump north at Ace Coffee Roasters.

Outside, though winter's tenuous hold on the city has intermittently tightened and loosened, steady pedestrian traffic trickles in and out of the numerous food establishments that dot each block. This would have been curious - even unimaginable - in days past, where downtown was the domain of the questionable and the derelict. That has never been more untrue than it is now, and to see Edmonton grow out of the inevitable "Doughnut Effect" is both gratifying and exciting. No matter how much politicians crow about revitalizing the downtown core, it is irrefutably evident that change will come from within - from places just like Coffee Bureau.


Coffee Bureau on Urbanspoon

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