Rge Rd, when it first opened, reminded our fair city that food came from somewhere, be it ground, leaf, hoof or feather. It did so without being preachy, elitist, or smug and brought barn and farmhouse paraphernalia to an urbane city street without resorting to kitsch or contrived country-fried contraband. These are, by no means, easy feats.
Rge Rd cracked Air Canada's En Route magazine's "Canada's best new restaurants"
list a year ago, and the buzz has continued - rightfully so - ever since. Rge Rd also earned spot in Maclean's magazine's "Canada's 100 Best"
issue this spring. Fame is a paradox, however; at once a microscope and a
halogen spotlight. Indeed, one's modus operandi is dissected with near-surgical precision, while the inevitable spotlight brings a relentless mix of well-wishers and coat-tail riders. How, then, does a restaurant whose very existence is rooted in rural simplicity maintain its set of governing values?
The answer is surprisingly straightforward: keep it simple and use what the land has to offer. Rge Rd's penchant for showcasing unexpected ingredients begins with a tiny shower of orange flowers across this evening's "Kitchen Board." The contents of this hearty slab of wood change often and reflect the ephemeral nature of farm fare. Tonight, a pair of salubrious sliders sport red onion-ring halos at jaunty angles. A doll-sized iron crock cradles creamy fish casserole. Crispy flatbread provides an ideal vehicle for ferrying said fish from plate to mouth. Scotch Eggs are a nod to rustic British snacks: crisp crumb crust, ground meat mantle, and creamy egg core.
A little surprise arrives midway between appetizers and entrees: a tumble of spongy morel mushrooms kissed by cream and cradled by a snake-like grilled green bean. The fungi veritably sigh with promises of spring and hint of a recent existence in damp, earthy undergrowth. This off-menu treat will be spoken of long after the meal concludes.
Supper is almost anticlimactic after the morel mushrooms' perfect simplicity. Halibut with garlic ramps and mascarpone gnocchi (left), however, pairs sensationally smooth potato dumplings with buttery, flaky flatfish. Ramps impart little zings of tantalizing bitterness. Pheasant (right) is a tangible reminder of why dark meat must not be scorned in favour of light. The bird's rich and resonant flesh finds punchy, acidic sweetness among black garlic juice and tomatoes. A triangular pheasant galette encases further pheasant with tender onions, granting the fowl status as both lead role and supporting actor.
Rge Rd's great strength lies in its alchemic ability to refract humble ingredients, be they offal or flowers, into culinary synergy. All ingredients are treated with respect; offal never defaults into shock-value and flowers never become airy-fairy nonsense. Decor is evocative and effective. Service is honest and never effusive. This, truly, is the intersection of farm, food, and friends.