"Local" is the most overused word in the food industry. Once an indicator of something edgy and progressive, this adjective has been bandied about far too much to have impact. Indeed, the diner grows weary of every up-and-coming eatery boasting of "local" food when items that clearly hail from regions far flung from our fair city - the likes of prawns and avocado, for example - pervade the menu.The word, and everything it stands for, loses authenticity when misapplied so frequently.
St. Albert's 12 Acres, however, turns this unfortunate trend right on its head. When 12 Acres says something is local, they mean it. Nearly every item on 12 Acres' menu is sourced from a nearby farm. Those items not yet grown on this farm, explains our server, are sourced from other local producers. It is an ambitious credo - a lofty and noble goal - that restores faith in the well-worn "local" descriptor. Supper in 12 Acres' stately River House home begins with several crisp flutes of bubbly, and segues into a Pickled Salad.Here, lively fresh greens rub shoulders with piquant pickled onions and cukes. A light dill dressing weaves this melange of sweet and sour into a salad most remarkable.
Pillowy gnocchi veritably breathe with hot summer sun and subtly musky tomatoes. A large basil leaf waves skyward like a jaunty plume. A house-made hamburger tastes of beef first - not overwrought dressings or heavy-handed spices. A sizable bun is a wee bit dense and would benefit from a quick toasting, but a tumble of wedge fries reminds one that potatoes are the "best supporting role" for a reason.
A judicious crock of creme brulee requires a firm hand to crack the burnt sugar crust, granting access to the glorious custard mantle within. Though the air is smotheringly hot tonight, the ambient conditions are instantly forgotten in this haven of home-grown food.
The well-worn culture of everything local may come and go, as do so many things in life, but true commitment to knowing where one's food came from is timeless. 12 Acres knows where they came from. More importantly, they know where they are going.