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Thursday, 27 August 2015

Rogue Wave Coffee Co. - Survival of the Fittest

Edmonton's coffee scene has diversified and proliferated - Coffee Bureau, Barking Buffalo, Lock Stock, Iconoclast, and that is just scratching the surface - and yet barely sates our endless thirst. All occupy similar, but distinct niches - indicative of a diverse urban culinary environment. Indeed, diverse environments permit specialization. Greater environmental diversity begets vacant niches, which in turn beget the evolution of highly specialized entities to occupy them.


Rogue Wave Coffee Co. (appropriately named, I might add) is settling into its niche in the nascently cool Queen Mary Park. A string of older warehouses have been given new personalities with bright paint and quirky signage. Though but a few blocks from bustling Jasper and 124 Street, pedestrian traffic is sparse. A blackboard sandwich board helpfully points towards Rogue's propped-open door, through which a highly specialized world of coffee awaits.


Rogue's space evokes a late-19th century, complete with laboratory equipment, blonde wood shelves, formulae scratched onto a black board, and glassware brimming with frothing brews. Heavy windows are propped open, letting in an autumn-tinged breeze. A bicycle leans nonchalantly in a corner. Only the soundtrack seems deliciously anachronistic, seguing from Men at Work, to A-Ha, to Michael Jackson.


Rogue Wave's focus is clear. There are no muffins, panini, wraps or other distractions beckoning from the counter. No, Rogue pulls a damn fine cappuccino that balances heft and froth and lingers like the melody of a favourite song. There are a few other permutations of coffee, both hot and cold, plus other quaffable entities, and that's it. This hyperspecificity bespeaks our city's readiness to embrace cafes that are proud to not pander to the lowest common denominator through tedious pages of half-baked dishes, or syrup-laden concoctions that scarcely resemble coffee at the best of times. If entities like coffee shops are products of environmental selective pressures, then Rogue Wave is a fine example of Edmonton's culinary evolution.


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